I had to run back to the hotel to get something in the middle of the day on Thursday. While I was there, I decided to get an avocado salad, since the opportunity to replace my Power Bar meal with real food was just to good to pass up.
While I was eating my avocado, a skinny white guy with scraggly chin-length white hair walked into the dining room, all hunched over and emanating sleaze. I stared at my table as hard as I could, willing the guy to not come over. Of course he came over anyway.
"You here alone?" (This was said, of course, with the creepiest of smiles.)
"NO."
"Oh. Well, I am a boat captain, from Trinidad. I just got in with a shipment from Miami. They paid me a bunch to bring food here, 'to give to the starving children of Haiti.' Well, I'm off to sell it!"
With this, he gave a huge conspiratorial wink, and slunk away.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Teaser
Here are two pictures. Granted, they were taken on my camera phone, but they give the flavor of the place, at least.
The Hotel Roi Christophe, where we stayed, was the summer home for a famous and well-liked king in the 19th century.
The boulevard, a few blocks from the hotel, was beautiful to walk along!
The Hotel Roi Christophe, where we stayed, was the summer home for a famous and well-liked king in the 19th century.
The boulevard, a few blocks from the hotel, was beautiful to walk along!
Home, safe
So my Fung Wah seat companion was a man from Port au Prince, and we had a great discussion about development in Haiti that lasted for three hours. And then my cab driver was from the town next to where I worked these past three weeks. He was thrilled to be bringing someone home from Haiti, and couldn't stop beaming. And he shared his exciting news with me; after 13 years apart from his wife and four sons, they all were granted US residency on Friday! And now, after 21 hours of travel, I am off to sleep and sleep and sleep.
Friday, October 10, 2008
5 jours!
Only five more days! Mixed feelings, of course. It's beautiful here, I could do this work for another month easily, and people are so very nice...but it sure will be nice to see my pup, experience autumn, see friends, eat real ice cream, and not worry about dengue, malaria, or standing out as so so "Blan."
Our org's Haitian former program manager was apparently a very quirky man. On a plane trip across Haiti with the org's Executive Director, the domestic airline personnel were uncharacteristically anal about poring through the contents of all passengers' bags. The E.D. was carrying a small pair of scissors to trim his beard, and the airline personnel decided that he, as a foreigner, was not to be trusted with them on the flight. Instead, they entrusted his Haitian colleague with the scissors for the duration of their flight. When the E.D. laughingly said, about halfway through the flight, "Oh, while I'm thinking of it, may I have my scissors back?" his employee flat-out refused. This was his trusted boss, who he had worked with for years and had even come to visit in the States. "Remember," he said, "the men who flew into the Twin Towers were white men!"
The importance of relationship building has been underlined for me today. Last Monday, when I was complaining about not having any "productive" meetings, I had just gotten back from helping a doctor during her English lesson. The doctor, who had previously been shy and tight-lipped around me, has since proven to be my most valuable resource here. She gave me the richest and most candid interview I've had, arranged a focus group discussion for me, and then called to let me know of a wonderful opportunity she's arranged for me today. She will be bringing me to a neighboring city, because the hospital there is rumored to have the best blood bank in Northern Haiti. I'm very excited!
Last night's pineapples were pure melt-in-your-mouth fresh sweetness. I ordered an extra plate as my dessert. Extraordinary!
Our org's Haitian former program manager was apparently a very quirky man. On a plane trip across Haiti with the org's Executive Director, the domestic airline personnel were uncharacteristically anal about poring through the contents of all passengers' bags. The E.D. was carrying a small pair of scissors to trim his beard, and the airline personnel decided that he, as a foreigner, was not to be trusted with them on the flight. Instead, they entrusted his Haitian colleague with the scissors for the duration of their flight. When the E.D. laughingly said, about halfway through the flight, "Oh, while I'm thinking of it, may I have my scissors back?" his employee flat-out refused. This was his trusted boss, who he had worked with for years and had even come to visit in the States. "Remember," he said, "the men who flew into the Twin Towers were white men!"
The importance of relationship building has been underlined for me today. Last Monday, when I was complaining about not having any "productive" meetings, I had just gotten back from helping a doctor during her English lesson. The doctor, who had previously been shy and tight-lipped around me, has since proven to be my most valuable resource here. She gave me the richest and most candid interview I've had, arranged a focus group discussion for me, and then called to let me know of a wonderful opportunity she's arranged for me today. She will be bringing me to a neighboring city, because the hospital there is rumored to have the best blood bank in Northern Haiti. I'm very excited!
Last night's pineapples were pure melt-in-your-mouth fresh sweetness. I ordered an extra plate as my dessert. Extraordinary!
Tuesday, October 07, 2008
jour du christophe
The head of the hospital lab is a very powerful man, and has declared tomorrow a holiday. Banks, non-essential hospital services, and everything else in town will be shut down. Craziness! I'm trying to re-arrange my (work-related) trip to a different town, which I intended to go on this Friday. May as well not waste a precious day...
Fun, though! Like a snow day during the 100+ degree weather.
Fun, though! Like a snow day during the 100+ degree weather.
Monday, October 06, 2008
Creme
I think "ice cream" might be the phrase I can say in the most languages...
Haiti is still grand. My work is going very well. I have spent the past 2.5 work days working exclusively on relationship building and not information gathering, but I must not get impatient. Two of the people I have gotten to know during this time started out reticent and suspicious, and are now eager to help. This is no small feat, and I am trying to remind myself of that, even though I have no new findings to put into my report. Yet. But I do already have about eight pages (single-spaced) of important information I've gathered, and I now have five meetings set up for the rest of this week. So things are picking up.
Unfortunately, I don't feel very comfortable posting much about the work I'm doing. I feel like these relationships are still only tenuously forged, and many of my findings are politically complex. Suffice it to say I am learning a lot, enjoying the work, and excited of what may come of my findings.
A story before I run: Last week a cow in town was being walked to its slaughter in Cap, and apparently spoke to its would-be killers, saying, "I will not die twice." The cow was not killed, is now understood to be some sort of god incarnate, and the town has since flocked to behold this wonder.
Haiti is still grand. My work is going very well. I have spent the past 2.5 work days working exclusively on relationship building and not information gathering, but I must not get impatient. Two of the people I have gotten to know during this time started out reticent and suspicious, and are now eager to help. This is no small feat, and I am trying to remind myself of that, even though I have no new findings to put into my report. Yet. But I do already have about eight pages (single-spaced) of important information I've gathered, and I now have five meetings set up for the rest of this week. So things are picking up.
Unfortunately, I don't feel very comfortable posting much about the work I'm doing. I feel like these relationships are still only tenuously forged, and many of my findings are politically complex. Suffice it to say I am learning a lot, enjoying the work, and excited of what may come of my findings.
A story before I run: Last week a cow in town was being walked to its slaughter in Cap, and apparently spoke to its would-be killers, saying, "I will not die twice." The cow was not killed, is now understood to be some sort of god incarnate, and the town has since flocked to behold this wonder.
Thursday, October 02, 2008
Nou kontan
The land surrounding Cap Haitien is beautiful. The plane trip here may have provided me with the most exquisite sights I've ever beheld. The deforested hills and mountains are encased by a thin layer of green (Grass? Moss? It's hard to tell.), and are full of dips which make them appear like human backs (like the contours of the spine and pelvis and shoulders). It was dusk, so the shadows and the green were intensified, and glowed as if sprinkled with gold. It was so breathtaking that it made me cry.
There are various types of palm trees and leafy trees scattered through the hospital and hotel grounds. The sky is a clear and cloudless soft blue all day except near dusk, when thunderclouds (cumulonimbi, if my memory of 5th grade science class isn't faltering) roll in. Buildings are made of "block," a mixture containing mostly sand. What I've seen of Cap Haitien (or O'Kap) is composed almost exclusively of one or two floor structures. The hospital buildings are mostly painted white, but in town each building or stretch of buildings is painted in pastels or brighter colors.
Free breakfast at the hotel includes fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice, a plate of fruit salad (guava, banana, and pineapple, though none of these has been especially ripe), and bread to be coated with mango preserves and a thin peanut butter flavored with pepper. An unusual PBJ, indeed. Ice water is gulped down throughout, as the heat and humidity bring perceived temperature to 100-110 degrees, and we lose a lot in sweat. Lunch is a Power Bar or two scarfed down while working. The cheapest dinner option is rice and beans with a rotating side of vegetables. On top of this goes a white gravy flavored with pepper and cloves. A popular and tasty topping to sprinkle on (but lightly, since it is very spicy) is a kind of vegetable slaw called picklese. On my first night here I had a dessert of rum raisin ice cream!! The raisins were soaked in rum for long enough that they didn't taste horrible (i.e. like raisins), and the ice cream was actually iced condensed milk- very refreshing, sweet and tasty! Typing about it now is making me wish that I could have some more of that instead of my second Power Bar...
Days are long, steamy, and slow. It is hard to notice that progress has been made, but indeed I have done a good amount of work already.
So far I have not been sick. My legs are coated by mosquito bites from my knees down because professional dress here for women includes knee-length or longer skirts, and the mosquitoes are not deterred by my generously applied coat of DEET. Please cross your fingers that the malaria prophylaxis and the bednet will help me get through this trip malaria free!
Please keep sending through emails; it is very nice to hear from you, and I haven't been getting very many emails these days!
There are various types of palm trees and leafy trees scattered through the hospital and hotel grounds. The sky is a clear and cloudless soft blue all day except near dusk, when thunderclouds (cumulonimbi, if my memory of 5th grade science class isn't faltering) roll in. Buildings are made of "block," a mixture containing mostly sand. What I've seen of Cap Haitien (or O'Kap) is composed almost exclusively of one or two floor structures. The hospital buildings are mostly painted white, but in town each building or stretch of buildings is painted in pastels or brighter colors.
Free breakfast at the hotel includes fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice, a plate of fruit salad (guava, banana, and pineapple, though none of these has been especially ripe), and bread to be coated with mango preserves and a thin peanut butter flavored with pepper. An unusual PBJ, indeed. Ice water is gulped down throughout, as the heat and humidity bring perceived temperature to 100-110 degrees, and we lose a lot in sweat. Lunch is a Power Bar or two scarfed down while working. The cheapest dinner option is rice and beans with a rotating side of vegetables. On top of this goes a white gravy flavored with pepper and cloves. A popular and tasty topping to sprinkle on (but lightly, since it is very spicy) is a kind of vegetable slaw called picklese. On my first night here I had a dessert of rum raisin ice cream!! The raisins were soaked in rum for long enough that they didn't taste horrible (i.e. like raisins), and the ice cream was actually iced condensed milk- very refreshing, sweet and tasty! Typing about it now is making me wish that I could have some more of that instead of my second Power Bar...
Days are long, steamy, and slow. It is hard to notice that progress has been made, but indeed I have done a good amount of work already.
So far I have not been sick. My legs are coated by mosquito bites from my knees down because professional dress here for women includes knee-length or longer skirts, and the mosquitoes are not deterred by my generously applied coat of DEET. Please cross your fingers that the malaria prophylaxis and the bednet will help me get through this trip malaria free!
Please keep sending through emails; it is very nice to hear from you, and I haven't been getting very many emails these days!
Bonswa!
power is coming through inconsistently. we are safe, productive and happy. i'll work on a real post now, but wanted to get that stuff out of the way since i don't know how long the power will last.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
O'Kap!!!
Hello, at last, from Cap Haitien. Internet is incredibly slow, so hopefully this will post. Went to National Red Cross lab! More when I can. All is well.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Safe in Port au Prince!
The Executive Director and I have arrived safely in Haiti, and are being showered with hospitality. A pediatrician who used to work at the hospital we work with in Cap Haitien was on our flight. The welcome he and his family have shown us is almost embarrassing, because it is so wonderful, complete, and over the top.
It is 7:30 pm here, and I am almost ready to sleep after a delicious home-cooked meal (with ripe avocado so rich and sweet it was like dessert), blanketed by this steamy warmth, in a spacious home. So cozy and luxurious. I even have my own bathroom! It definitely is apparent that we are in the home of three successful doctors...
The pediatrician was stuck in the airport along with us for six hours, and I was able to interview him ad nauseum re: blood transfusion at "our" hospital. So work has been done already!
My professional acquaintance from Boston was on our plane from Miami. Our gracious host knew more than seven of our fellow passengers. One of them was his cousin. The world has definitely never felt so small.
The roads are as they say; big holes, three vehicles squeezing through one lane, taptaps (all brightly painted and boasting proclamations about Jesus) overflowing with passengers. There is a curious order to it all, nonetheless. Any time a driver makes a precarious move, he or she honks repeatedly until the move has been carried out. The other cars, mopeds and taptaps all miraculously compensate. I am glad that I am to mostly walk and not ride for the rest of my trip, though.
There is a possibility that I will get to see the central blood testing facility thanks to our extended time in PaP! Tomorrow we shall see.
There is not much power in Cap Haitien, but I will post and/or call when I can.
I hope you all are well.
Love,
B
It is 7:30 pm here, and I am almost ready to sleep after a delicious home-cooked meal (with ripe avocado so rich and sweet it was like dessert), blanketed by this steamy warmth, in a spacious home. So cozy and luxurious. I even have my own bathroom! It definitely is apparent that we are in the home of three successful doctors...
The pediatrician was stuck in the airport along with us for six hours, and I was able to interview him ad nauseum re: blood transfusion at "our" hospital. So work has been done already!
My professional acquaintance from Boston was on our plane from Miami. Our gracious host knew more than seven of our fellow passengers. One of them was his cousin. The world has definitely never felt so small.
The roads are as they say; big holes, three vehicles squeezing through one lane, taptaps (all brightly painted and boasting proclamations about Jesus) overflowing with passengers. There is a curious order to it all, nonetheless. Any time a driver makes a precarious move, he or she honks repeatedly until the move has been carried out. The other cars, mopeds and taptaps all miraculously compensate. I am glad that I am to mostly walk and not ride for the rest of my trip, though.
There is a possibility that I will get to see the central blood testing facility thanks to our extended time in PaP! Tomorrow we shall see.
There is not much power in Cap Haitien, but I will post and/or call when I can.
I hope you all are well.
Love,
B
Sunday, September 28, 2008
And I am Haiti-bound(?)
So I am to leave for Haiti this morning, at long last. Unfortunately, my traveling companion (the Executive Director for the organization I'm working with) was pulled off his plane because they needed his seat. Now I am in limbo, as I can't get on my flight, because I clearly can't travel to Port Au Prince solo. We shall see how this sorts itself out.
My nerves have been uncharacteristically calm leading up to today. I am nervous, as any sane and informed person should be, but to a very healthy extent. I even got sleep and everything.
I have avoided sending out a mass plea for financial help with this trip (which, aside from the generous $400 contribution from the Ken James Fund, is almost entirely self-funded).
I will be in Cap Haitien from (hopefully) September 29 until October 18. I will update this blog from there if electricity and internet access allow.
I'm so excited!
My nerves have been uncharacteristically calm leading up to today. I am nervous, as any sane and informed person should be, but to a very healthy extent. I even got sleep and everything.
I have avoided sending out a mass plea for financial help with this trip (which, aside from the generous $400 contribution from the Ken James Fund, is almost entirely self-funded).
I will be in Cap Haitien from (hopefully) September 29 until October 18. I will update this blog from there if electricity and internet access allow.
I'm so excited!
Wednesday, June 04, 2008
Unbridled Enthusiasm about Current and Future Opportunities
Don't let the existence of a second post mislead you; I have never left entries in my paper journal more than sporadically, and I don't believe that I will update this blog frequently, either.
I do have a few things I'm particularly excited about today, though, so I thought I would share:
1) I am loving my summer classes! And I am pleased as can be that I will emerge from these two months with two certificates, and with all of my Master's degree classes behind me.
2) I learned yesterday that I will be credited with some work I completed in January on a report being submitted to USAID, UNICEF and the Government of Malawi! It is generous of the primary investigator to acknowledge my work in this way.
3) The Medical Director for the New England Red Cross has offered me an incredible opportunity to spend days getting lectures, interview time, and tours so I can learn about the American model for blood donation, screening, storage, and distribution! I am thrilled to know that I will have the chance to observe this in person before I begin my work overseas. Obviously I won't be looking to directly transfer American practices, but seeing a functioning system will surely be wonderfully instructive.
4) A woman who was a pioneer in the world of blood safety in developing countries (an article regarding her PhD work was one of the first of its kind to be published in The Lancet) has been kind enough to agree to be my advisor for my internship write-up. Her ideas and insights have already been incredibly valuable as I figure out how to approach the internship itself. I can't wait to start applying all I'm learning to my internship this fall, and to continue working with her.
All of this is exciting in its own right, but I'm also crossing my fingers that it will help to carve out a professional niche for me in the "Real World"...
I do have a few things I'm particularly excited about today, though, so I thought I would share:
1) I am loving my summer classes! And I am pleased as can be that I will emerge from these two months with two certificates, and with all of my Master's degree classes behind me.
2) I learned yesterday that I will be credited with some work I completed in January on a report being submitted to USAID, UNICEF and the Government of Malawi! It is generous of the primary investigator to acknowledge my work in this way.
3) The Medical Director for the New England Red Cross has offered me an incredible opportunity to spend days getting lectures, interview time, and tours so I can learn about the American model for blood donation, screening, storage, and distribution! I am thrilled to know that I will have the chance to observe this in person before I begin my work overseas. Obviously I won't be looking to directly transfer American practices, but seeing a functioning system will surely be wonderfully instructive.
4) A woman who was a pioneer in the world of blood safety in developing countries (an article regarding her PhD work was one of the first of its kind to be published in The Lancet) has been kind enough to agree to be my advisor for my internship write-up. Her ideas and insights have already been incredibly valuable as I figure out how to approach the internship itself. I can't wait to start applying all I'm learning to my internship this fall, and to continue working with her.
All of this is exciting in its own right, but I'm also crossing my fingers that it will help to carve out a professional niche for me in the "Real World"...
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